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Boost / Vacuum Gauge |
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| When increasing
boost it is necessary to install a boost/vacuum gauge because the stock
boost gauge is not very accurate. There are three main step to installing an after market boost gauge: Mounting the gauge, Tapping the pressure hose and Hooking up the wiring. Mounting the gauge will be largely a personal choice. I think that the A-pillar is the best location for it but there might be other options. In addition to purchasing the gauge and pod sever brass fittings also need to be acquired to tap into the MAP sensor, these can be found at Home Depot: (2) 1/4" hose barb to screw adapter, (1) T-Adaptor, (1) Adaptor to go from the tee to the gauge hose. Gauge should come with some brass fittings Cost: $60 Gauge + Pod, $10 Brass Fittings Time: 2 hours Difficulty: Moderate |
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| Step 1 - Gauge Mounting on
A-Pillar For installing a cup style gauge holder. Position the cup on the a-pillar so that it is best orientated for visibility. Using a pencil lightly trace around the mounting plate, this provides a template for drilling later. Now remove the a-pillar by pulling away the rubber gasket on the door and pull out the pillar. It is held in place by three plastic taps. To mount the gauge two holes need to be drilled in the pillar. Orientate the mounting cup on the template and pencil in the location of the two drill holes. Use a razor to first cut the fabric for the holes. Before the hoes are drilled pick out a bit that is slightly smaller than the screw. This will allow for the screws to grip the plastic and alleviate the need for nuts to secure the gauge. With the correct bit drill the holes in the plastic. Screw in the screws and cut of the tips so they do not rub the frame, this is shown in the picture to the right. |
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| Step 2 - Tapping The Hose
The boost gauge hose is spliced into the rubber hose that runs from the throttle body to the MAP sensor. The MAP sensor is a small black box and is attached to the passenger side of the strut bar. There is one black 1/4" hose which connects it to the throttle body. Cut the middle of the hose and install the brass fittings as pictured. Make sure that all fittings are securely tightened, the brass fittings do not provide the best seal so some Teflon thread sealer might come in handy. The boost hose now needs to be run through the fire wall. Under Tips on the homepage I have explained the best location for running wires through the fire wall. To gain access to the hole the kick panel above the pedals needs to be removed. This is the trickiest part of the installation because of the small amount of room to maneuver With the hose through the firewall it now needs to be snaked up to the boost gauge. The best advice is to poke around until the hose comes up near the speaker. With the hose at the boost gauge cut to length and apply the brass fitting which will connect it to the gauge. |
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| Step 3 - Wiring The Gauge
Two connections are required to hook up the Gauge's power, 12V positive and 12V negative. The only reason for the power is for a light bulb which will illuminate the gauge. I was very happy with my gauge because it came with a green cover for the bulb which matches the dash lights very well. To further tie in my gauge with the dash lights I realized that the power supply would need to come from the dimmer switch. This way the boost gauge will be controllable with the dash lights. To the right is a wire diagram of the dimmer switch. To access the dimmer switch the panel directly below the das needs to be removed. It is held in place by several hex screws and one bolt. With this panel removed it is possible to pop out the dimmer switch and reveal the wires. I spliced into the interior lighting wire, but any of the other wires listed at the bottom would be fine because they are all controlled by the dimmer with the same output. I than ran my spliced wire up by the dash speaker and attached it to my gauge. The best spot to ground the negative wire is just below the fuse box, where there is a bolt that holds sever other grounding wires. Attach the grounding wire to this source and run it up to the gauge. By now all three connections should be attached to the gauge. Secure the gauge to the cup and mounting bracket and make sure all wired are tucked away. Reattach the a-pillar and enjoy your new boost gauge. Autometer Sport-Comp (2 - 1/16") Boost Gauge 30lb.Boost / 30in.Vacuum Part Number: 3303 |
Don't Use Green/White - Power Supply to Switch Black - Ground Use any of the wires below, they all have the same power supply. Grey/Red - Interior Lighting Violet/White - SID Violet/White - Instrument Illum. Grey/White - Interior Lighting Grey/White - Heater Illum.  |
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